1 month ago | By WWD

Chitose Abe has her own take on the gender-fluid trend.
For her spring men's collection, she brought a softness to tailoring by using pleats in unexpected ways. They fanned out from the body of a short-sleeved jacket, giving it the ample volume of a smock. Applied to gray flannel Bermuda shorts, the pleats echoed the creased skirts of school uniforms.
Conversely, Abe employed sartorial fabrics in her women's resort line, for instance, making a bustier dress with Loro Piana's water-repellent Storm System material. “I find the fabric actually quite supple and very soft, and I just wanted to...
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Mr. Saturday Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

Canadian designer Joey Gollish brought it back to the beginning for his latest collection, citing Paris' legendary Chat Noir as the spiritual home of partying.
Clubbing has been a consistent theme in his collections, and here the designer dug deeper into subcultures and dedicated it all to cabaret. Fitting on Pride night, with the closed-off streets of the Marais outside of the show venue erupting into one big rainbow bright fete.
The runway ran the length of the Musée National des Archives, decked out with café tables, cocktails, and ash trays encouraging guests to light up all under the...
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Davi Paris Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

For spring, Davide Marello first thought of Édouard Manet's artworks, including “Le Déjeuner sur l'herbe.”
“In the paintings, the people are kind of chilling in the grass, and I was imagining what they were talking about,” the designer said. What bubbled up was The Grand Tour, a trip young gentlemen of yesteryear took as a right of passage.
“I thought about a young sailor artist traveling around Europe, collecting good memories,” said Marello.
For this breezy, summery collection festooned with flowers, he worked with a variety of fabrics, including viscose, cotton gabardine, jersey and raw...
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Undercover Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

Jun Takahashi continued to draw inspiration from music and cinema for his men's wear offerings.
As its name suggested, the spring 2023 collection “The Dark Side of the Bright Side,” released in the form of a look book during Paris Men's Fashion Week, was a fan letter to the English rock band Pink Floyd.
Cover art from the band's iconic albums, including the dairy cow on “Atom Heart Mother,” the prism on “The Dark Side of the Moon,” the Battersea Power Station on “Animals,” and two men shaking hands with one burning on “Wish You Were Here,” were repurposed with some printed over an entire...
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Fursac Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

A year-and-some into his tenure at accessible luxury menswear label Fursac, creative director Gauthier Borsarello was inspired by France.
The designer imagined a newly moneyed man living the high life at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, parlaying his extensive knowledge of 20th-century menswear to spin the brand's core of Monday-to-Friday suiting into an offering that covered downtimes, too.
He achieved this by balancing conservative cuts and palette with the brand's first sneaker, an F subtly worked into the design; or adding edgier touches like a glossy printed-crocodile jacket. He expressed...
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System Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

South Korean label and creative studio System mused on connection, love and fulfillment this season in a short film titled “A Family Matter.”
Set up in chapters, it's a mini mediation on building your own tribe, be it a nuclear unit, twin flame or a best friend of the canine kind. The film is set to the jaunty notes of Adrian Berenguer's “Little Things.”
It's the little things that are key to this collection, with the design team focusing on small and quirky details - frayed hems on men's shorts, the tiniest of fringes on a denim skirt, or a piece of striped string looped through a metal...
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Casablanca Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

Charaf Tajer made an effort to expand the brand's offering beyond its signature colorful print shirts with his first physical show in two years.
He built a psychedelic ranch with four real horses behind slats and conscripted two professional cowboys to keep them calm. The collection was inspired by his month-long trip to the west coast of Mexico, which “has no tourists but ranches,” he noted.
Standouts included cowboy shirts and chaps influenced by local culture and the brand's signature retro aesthetic, a fringed blazer, scalloped shorts, a gradient padded jacket, a fish net dress, as...
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Kolor Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

Kolor returned to Paris for its first physical show in five years. Designer Junichi Abe was last on the ground in 2017 for men's; for this season, he presented a a co-ed collection.
In that time, Abe's designs have become more whimsical and daring, and he's experimented almost too heavily with deconstruction and disjointed layering. Back on the runway he kept that direction, but pared his tendencies down with simpler silhouettes.
“I wanted a ‘new simple,' so it was a process of cutting, cutting, cutting - to make things feel easier but strong. It's ‘new simple,' but not minimalism,” he...
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Hermès Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

The living is easy at Hermès, which showed off a collection of summery gelato tones and radiated sunshine on an otherwise gray and drizzly Paris day.
Véronique Nichanian said that she wanted this collection to be “all about holiday - not the city. It's about lightness and having fun, pop colors, and the natural world.”
The show, which took place outside, on the grounds of the historic tapestry factory Manufacture des Gobelins, was pure escapism for guests, many of whom were wearing hooded khaki raincoats that Hermès staffers distributed at the entrance to the show.
By contrast, models were...
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Sankuanz Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By WWD

This collection was called “Chapter Two: Kangrinboqê 2023,” after the sacred peak on Mount Kailash in Tibet. Kangrinboqê also was the name of Shangguan Zhe's first collection for Sankuanz, in 2013, which contained numerous characteristics of traditional Tibetan-wear.
“We want to take a new look at what we did before and to reinterpret those elements in the way the brand is now,” said Zhe.
So he riffed on the garb's elegant long, loose, drape-filled silhouettes to craft garments that remain staunchly modern - grounded in today's street culture and high fashion.
One look included a...
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